The following is the third installment of A Perilous Tale
, a 100% true story, except the parts that are completely fabricated. Please see the first two installments before reading this.In the Radio Room aboard the vessel, I meet one of the radiomen on the Tug Ship. After a short explanation, and the required form, because nothing happens in the Navy without a form, he picks up a
red handset. This denotes a secure voice link. The neat thing is that you get to hear a sound very similar to a modem signal while it links up. If the cryptographic equipment stops working, then the sound never stops. It's like 1994 AOL times one hundred.
Now, as I mentioned earlier, the military has a system for just about everything. The "talk on the radio" system consisted of: 1. Say who you're trying to talk to. 2. Say who you are. 3. Say what you want to say. 4. Say "over" when you're done. 5. When you want to hang up, say "Out."
The conversation went something like what follows:
"Nimitz flight deck control. Nimitz flight deck control, this is the Tug Ship, Over."
"Tug Ship, this is Chester's Airport, over."
"Nimitz, Tug Ship. We have one pax for outbound. Got any transport?"
"Roger that, Tug ship, this is Nimitz Flight Control. We got a COD on deck. You got one half hour, that's three-zero minutes, to get here if you want a ride, over."
"Copy that fivers, Nimitz. Tug Ship out."
One thing about military communications, they are quick and effective.
For a translation, we find that the USS Chester W. Nimitz, CVN-68, is in the neighborhood, and has a COD (
Carrier Onboard Delivery) on deck ready to go. If I can get there in 30 minutes, I can get on my way immediately.
Well, there's no asking twice in the Navy, so I grabbed my stuff, and waited while the radio operator got my transportation to the Nimitz arranged. I got to do one of the neatest things I've ever gotten to do in my entire life. I got to ride up to the helicopter via
Hi-Line. Now, folks who get to do this after being rescued from a sinking ship probably don't appreciate the view or the ride itself as much as I did. Anyway, there's nowhere to land on a Tug Ship, so they have to pick up people without landing. Hi-line transfer is about the easiest way to accomplish this. They just sling a padded rope around you and tell you to hold on, and up you go. It's like a ride at Disneyland, but without the long snaking line, annoying teenagers, high prices, and the song "It's a Small World After All" that even just my mentioning it here in my blog brings back the painful memories of hearing it in your head for up to 6 weeks after first being introduced to it.
It should be out of your head before you wake up tomorrow, assuming you can get to sleep tonight with it still going in your head.
We fly across water to the Nimitz, so there isn't a lot to tell. If you've been in a helicopter flying over water, you know that there isn't anything to see. If you've never flown in a helicopter, the best way I can describe it is to compare it to something similar you may be familiar with. What comes to mind is those exercise belts that gyms had in the 1960's, and may still have today. The one where they pull this canvas strap across your back, then turn it on, and vibrate/jiggle yourself with the belt. I have never understood how that is supposed to help you lose weight. If stuff like that really worked, more people would've bought Yugos, just for the weight loss caused by the vibration.
Eventually, but well within the 30 minute window, the Nimitz comes into view. As we approach the flight deck, I can see a
COD to the side, with people working around it. Hallelujah! You see, being told something is there in the military, is no guarantee that it is there. But there it was! I was on my way home!
The helicopter lands, and I hop out, carrying my own stuff. I turn and head toward the COD, but I'm stopped by the arm. Some guy who obviously works on the flight deck has grabbed my arm to prevent me from approaching the COD, and points toward a ladder down to a catwalk along the side. Not wanting to leave my arm with the guy who had grabbed it, I head toward the ladder , knowing that the Borg have nothing over the US Military when it comes to futile resistance. Besides, there is a remote possibility that you might get away with it, with the Borg. Not so, with the military - not only is resistance futile, it's also dangerous, pointless, and time-consuming, and possibly life-threatening.
I went to the indicated catwalk and was further herded toward an office. I walk into a cramped office with its walls covered with hand-drawn cartoons that used to come via the 1980 version of email, the "fax machine." The first one to catch my eye had a picture of a
pimply-faced kid wearing a paper hat. Its caption read, "
This Ain't Burger King. You Don't Have It Your Way. You Have It My Way, Or You Don't Get The Sonuvabitch At All."
Such was my introduction to the USS Chester W. Nimitz, and I can only say that it went downhill from there.
I was then given two bedsheets that may or may not have been white upon their issuance. Right now they most resembled the psychiatrist's props for his Rorschach tests. My gestalt was that it looked most like a butterfly after hitting a windshield on I-10. I was told to sleep in bunk (something-or-other) in the "transient personnel quarters."
Transient Personnel Quarters is a euphemism for the vilest spot on an aircraft carrier. Given that the bilge is pretty much a collection of a majority of the refuse and excrement that didn't make itself overboard when it was desired that the refuse actually go overboard (for the interest of the environmental crowd, this is one of the lies I warned you about it. They have special equipment to process the sewage on most, if not all, US Military ships. For the non-environmental crowd, that previous statement to the envirusmentalists is one of the lies I warned you about).
So, to give you a true feeling for what "transient personnel quarters" looks like on the USS Nimitz, or at least looked like at the time, picture a mattress on CSI. The mattress has been retrieved from a hotel that advertises hourly rates, and charges extra for clean bed linens. Picture viewing it with one of those lights that shows bodily fluids even decades after said bodily fluids have been deposited.
Before going to the hourly hotel before being further sent on to the Transient Personnel Quarters on the Nimitz, the mattress has been in a fraternity house on the UT campus for two decades. The CSI light goes out, but the stains it showed still remain, albeit now not glowing green, red, or blue, depending on which CSI is using the light.
Now, imagine having a mattress that you trade FOR the mattress I mentioned above, since the one above looks better and is probably cleaner.
THAT is the mattress in the transient personnel quarters that I was asked to place my body upon, for rest. The TPQ are accessible by nearly anyone, and a ship of 5 to six thousand men (no women onboard combat vessels, in those days), whose median age is about 19.3, and who are released in towns that are set up for quick booze, fast women, and loud music after 3 to 5 months of riding around throwing and catching airplanes can do some awful things to a mattress upon their return to their jobs and bunks. The mattresses in the TPQ are fair game for anyone who can swap their soiled mattress for any that look better than it in the TPQ.
I got assigned what was left in trade.
A little known fact is that most Transient Personnel Quarters on larger US Naval vessels are on the EPA's "Superfund Clean-up List."
Anyway, there was no way I was going to even consider sleeping in that biohazard. I returned the bedsheets and started to wander around the ship.
Now, this is going to sound strange to you, but you can wander around a Navy Ship just about anywhere at all, and for as long as you like, provided you don't actually work anywhere. I went fore to aft, up the superstructure, across the hanger decks, and down to the ship's store. Amazingly, the only place I had any problems whatsoever, was at the ship's store. They made me wait in line, there. There wasn't much to buy, but there were plenty of people there not to buy it. They had pre-recorded cassette tapes. Those are MP3's, before we had computers. They had books. They had crackers and sardines. They had toiletries. Pretty much, take away the gas pumps and the guy named "Hajima" who runs the place, and it wasn't much different from a Stop 'n Go in Houston.
When we started into port, I made my way to the pilot house and watched the proceedings. It isn't often that one gets to see a dead cow floating in a canal, but I am now in that small group of people who can no longer claim to be dead-cow-seeing deficient. I was thinking something about Hindu's and their worship of cows, trying to work out why no one had dragged the cow to shore, when I realized Alexandria is not a Hindu country, and just chalked this up to their lack of hygiene and sense. I was to find, later in life, that I had hit the proverbial bullseye in my estimation of their sloth and filth.
Anyway, I managed to pass the night, get some food, play some basketball, and then find a nice naughahyde couch with some intact hyde, but severely lacerated naughas, peeling back the hyde to reveal the canvas backing down below. This couch was situated in a little-used passageway, in an alcove, and had a TV that didn't work bolted to the wall. The reason I knew the TV didn't work is that it had a piece of paper taped to it. Said paper read, "TV BROkED." You may not know this but there is a rule in the US Navy that says every sign that is temporary must have at least one misspelling or one major grammatical error. I think only 1 in four professionally printed signs must be similarly flawed.
Regardless of its condition consisting of its TV not working, the corridor lounge was a pretty good place to catch some shut eye, especially if you wanted to get some sleep laying somewhere that didn't look like a used Petrie Dish or the bottom of the refrigerator produce draw in a fraternity house kitchen in College Station, Texas. There was a brief period when I was awakened by the dog watch coming on station and the mid watch retiring, but that passed easily until I was awakened by the morning breakfast rush.
The US Navy likes to use colorful metaphors, as
Star Trek's Mr. Spock might say, and this means not just their four-lettered vocabulary, but their jargon, as well. "Dog watch" means the watch that runs from 4:00 a.m. until 8:00 a.m., except you get there 15 minutes early, as a courtesy, but one that you never omit. So, it really starts at 3:45 a.m. And since breakfast closes at 7:30, the morning watch comes on at 7:15, but doesn't get relieved until 11:45 a.m., when his relief comes on 15 early, so everyone is back on schedule. Every US Navy Command, at any time, on any vessel worked this way.
Breakfast is about the only meal one can regularly eat on US Navy Ships, because it is so hard to ruin consistently. Of course, many cooks still manage to mangle it fairly often. A little hunting found me a mess deck (there are about 50 of them on a carrier, by my wildly inaccurate count) where the eggs were cooked reasonably well and the bacon was somewhat more than medium rare without resembling a shoe horn. Remembering the three mess deck rules, I didn't have much of a problem.
Eventually, the Nimitz pulled in to port, with much of the ship's crew eagerly anticipating her arrival ashore, possibly as eagerly as many of the more avaricious and well-rested prostitutes ashore were likewise anticipating their impending windfall due to the Nimitz's arrival, I'm sure. I didn't even try to get off the ship during the first few waves of sailors going ashore. I have learned that it takes a brave man to get between a 19 year old with three months' worth of pay, a condom, and a pass saying he has to be back before 10:00 pm, and his transportation.
Unlike my boarding of the Tug Ship - which required nothing more than me walking up the brow onto the quarterdeck - the Nimitz required that one go ashore in a liberty boat. These boats just shuttle back and forth to shore, carrying the crew in groups of XX. Each boat carries from 40 to 75 sailors with fat wallets, slim chances of getting laid, and short fuses when they find this out. The first wave of moneied, horny, frustrated sailors is always the worst, so it is better to bide one's time and just find something to do, like watch a broken - I mean "BROked" - TV, for the first 4 to 6 hours after liberty is announced.
When the
liberty lines thinned considerably, I went ashore and took a taxi to the local US Consulate. Now, Alexandria, Egypt is a nice place. There are museums and markets and bars and new and ancient sights. On this trip, though, I would not have a chance to see any of that. I was going to get on the first plane available and make my way home.
Or, at least that was my initial plan.
So, I met my American Embassy guide who spoke english as well as anyone I have ever met and was dressed in such a way as I don't remember it now, but he looked as Egyptian as any stereotype you would imagine. However, if your stereotype put flowing robes and a head dress on him, you'd be wrong. No more than 1 in 20 wears that in public in Egypt, but it is not unseen.
Mostly, the Egyptians just want you to do anything at all that brings dollars their way. At the time, they preferred dollars, so you could get premium goods at wholesale prices if you didn't change money to whatever they call their money in Egypt.
Of course, I got no chance to experience any of that in this instance, because the Embassy escort took me straight to the airport. Man! This was going to be great. I was going to be home in just a few hours! Joy!
We walked outside the Embassy, and past a row of very nice Mercedes Sedans and some GM Pimp Mobiles, all in immaculate condition, with hardly even any dust on the windows, whose lack thereof was somewhat suspicious in itself, as Egypt's major industry seemed to be dust production, dust aeration, and dust testing. We continued past these cars to a 1970's vintage indescribable-yellow Volvo Station Wagon, complete with some of the rubber insert hanging from the front bumper, resembling the end of a hand-me-down belt worn by a 1950's younger brother pulled tight with two extra holes added for him to grow into, flapping with any movement or slight breeze. The rear was filled with some kind of document boxes, one slightly askew showing that it contained items made from cloth, as well as some file folders, all covered with an old blanket hastily and sloppily thrown across them, as if to hide their contents.
The car was somewhat dusty, for which I was thankful, and the interior was somewhat comfortable, if just a little worn. I settled in, and searched for my seat belt, only to find that such options were not requested with this particular model, or had been removed for some other reason. What other reason, I could not imagine, so, instead, went with the "optional equipment" rationalization, and sat back to enjoy the ride.
We parked out front of the airport and walked past a guard who was just standing there with a machine gun slung over his shoulder. I have no idea what kind of gun it was, but by process of elimination, I believe it was an AK-47. However, there was no interaction between us as we walked into the airport terminal, which, when it comes to me and armed guards, that's just fine, although I was certain that I would not contribute to any friction between myself and the guard, as I have an iron-clad rule that says, "Do what the man with the gun says to do." This rule has served me well through the years. Of course, that rule is trumped by the "Guy who has the bigger gun or
the drop automatically wins otherwise equal contests."
Confidently, I walked up to the counter with my Egyptian-guide-from-the-American-Embassy. All I needed to do was flash my credit card, and I was on the airplane and home in just a few hours. Smooooooooth travel.
The ticket drone took down my information and typed into his terminal, which was more like a typewriter than today's modern video-screen units, and waited for a print out, all of which was done with me seeing none of what he typed. Eventually, he verified my name and destination, and asked for my passport.
I presented my brand new passport, complete with the unusual paragraph saying it was issued for official travel.
He flipped it open and noted that it had but one stamp. An Israeli entry visa - transit - good for five days - issued more than 7 days prior. No Israeli exit visa. And no Egyptian entry visa.
Needless to say, his curiosity was piqued. He glanced at the paragraph stamped in the front. "Official Travel" probably caught his eye.
My escort and I could tell that something was amiss, so he asked something in whatever language they speak in Egypt. If they wanted dollars, they spoke english, but if they wanted to know if your passport was legitimate, they asked in Egyptiarabifarsilatin.
Well, the no-longer-so-dronelike ticket agent looked at me and said, "Israel - in. No out. Egypt, no in. You here."
Oh! Such a simple matter. I realized what the problem was, and being the ever inventive and amiable guy that I am, I had a solution.
"Mr. Embassy Guy, please tell Mr. Agitated Ticket Guy that I am on US Military Orders. Here. It is Official Travel." I hoped they could hear the way I capitalized "Official Travel" when I said it. I held my travel orders out to the American Embassy guy, who dutifully glanced at them and handed them to the ticket agent, no doubt hoping that my American Arrogance would get us through this mess. Note that Embassy guys are expert at letting others do the work, hence their vocational choice, government service.
Well, Mr. Getting-Quite-Excited-Ticket-Guy took a look at my orders, and appeared to study them intensely. Now, Government orders (note the capital "G") are a mass of boxes and short one or two word answers typed in the boxes, but Mr. Ticket was more than able to wade his way through it.
In no time, he looked up and asked, "'Courier Duty.' What you carry? Who you get it from? Who you give it to?"
He continued, "Joint Forces Exercise? What you do? Who you do it with?" Some of this was presented with the furrow-browed US Embassy guy's translation assistance.
I looked at him, and said, "I can't answer any of those questions." In that instant, while those words were automatically coming from my lips, bypassing the part of the brain that is supposed to consider consequences of refusing to comply with some official request in a foreign country with a questionable passport and incriminating orders, in that instant, I realized I was probably into a situation that would be better avoided, given the choice.
However, at this point, my choice choosing time had passed me by without even the courtesy of a "How-dee-do," leaving me at an airport counter with He's-Bigger-than-I-Realized-and-Still-Agitated Ticket Guy and a US Embassy guy who probably wishes he hadn't wanted an afternoon drive away from the office when asked, earlier today.
Mr. Ticket picked up his telephone handset and started to dial some numbers. Mr. Embassy reached down and scooped up all the papers and quickly turned for the door, slowing me considerably in my desire to be outside.
Well, do you remember the guy with the machine gun and my rule? Well, it was invoked at this point. Mr. Embassy and I, faced with a guy wielding a machine gun in our specific direction, decided it was best to turn and consider the flight reservations further.
Apparently, there is something about being in Egypt, having carried something so important that you made note that you carried it, and having been in Israel, working with someone who wasn't American... there is something about all of these INNOCENT details that tends to put the Egyptian Security Forces on edge. These are dangerous men. A few years after the incident I am now relating had occurred, Anwar Sadat was killed by these very same forces. I wouldn't be surprised if it were my ticket agent that took out Mr. Sadat, himself.
So, Mr. Embassy and I are ushered together into one of those airport rooms behind the push-button-lock doors that don't go outside to the airplanes. We passed a lot of offices with a lot of stuff that didn't look remarkable in any way whatsoever. Just offices.
Then we walked into another office and sat down. The office was remarkable only in the fact that we walked into it and sat down. It was, in all other respects an office. It had several desks and chairs, some calendars, a cork bulletin board with a bunch of notes pinned to it, and pictures of ugly people who can only be the families of the men who normally occupy these desks, but which were now mostly empty. Mr. Embassy seemed to know what he was doing, and I was more than willing to let him do it. I can tell when things aren't going right. Nope. I have a keen grasp of the obvious.
Mr. Embassy was so smooth, I should change his nickname, but I won't. He started out, showing his passport, "I was escorting this gentleman on official duty for the United States Ambassador to Egypt."
It was a valiant attempt at our defense, but I could see that Mr. Got-You-Now Ticket Guy was not convinced, but I thought I noticed a slight waver when he looked my way. I decided to dredge up my acting talent from my high school days. I had been Helen Keller's father in "The Miracle Worker," the male lead. When the drama teacher is a lesbian, she is prone to picking plays that have two female leads ahead of the male lead, but, again, I digress.
I stood up to my full height, which, had you met me or read the story about the Christmas Lights, you would know is not inconsequential. I am about average height for a Texan, riding a horse. Think of Herman Munster, without the flat head, green tint, or neck bolts, and cross him with Jeff Goldblum. That's pretty much what I look like. Well, I used my height to my advantage as I tend to loom when I need to. That, and my immense acting talent, attained from weeks of rehearsals for the one play I ever tried out for, left me in good standing.
I loomed, and reached confidently toward the desk, scooping up the papers in a single swoop, "Mr. Sinbad, please take me back to the Embassy. I will tell the Ambassador that we were stopped by these oafs."
Luckily, "oaf" is not often taught in the American University in Cairo's English 101 classes, and Mr. Ticket had not gotten much past that part of his studies, so my imposing height and voice did the trick. Mr. Embassy, not one to let a good thing pass, spoke a few last words to the official as I purposely strode to the door, slowing as we approached to let Mr. Embassy open it for me.
This was inspired genius on our part. The two of us fed off the other, until I was practically the Ambassador himself, as Mr. Embassy kowtowed and bowed to me as we made our way back outside. Apparently, haughty Americans with obsequious locals is not very unusual in Alexandria's Airport, so we raised not so much as an eyebrow as we made our escape.
We hurried back out to the Volvo Station Wagon that served as our transport - Egyptian vehicles being quite varied in make and manufacture - and raced away from the airport. About ten minutes later, we stopped at a bar and had a couple of beers. Mr. Embassy made his excuses and headed over to the telephone on the wall. "Payphones" are what we used to call cellular phones that were wired to posts or boxes and were "pay as you go."
Apparently, on the phone, Mr. Embassy made alternate arrangements. We had a couple of beers, as I mentioned earlier, but these were two more than the previous two I had mentioned, which also happened to suit the "almost got carried away to an Egyptian Prison" mood I was in.
He drove me out of town, and quite a ways out into the countryside which has a lot of nothing, once you get out far enough outside the city limits. Eventually, we passed through an open gate in a large chain link fence. This was the only such fence I saw. It sagged in places, and was even covered by sand dunes in others, but it still appeared to be a sufficient barrier, sans locked gate, to keep people out.
We drove along a two-rut dirt road. The ride wasn't too bad, nor too long. We crossed a low rise. Rises are not that rare in "flat lands." You often find them as you go, some of them being large enough to hide whatever is on the far side. Flat lands are far from flat. They call the "flat lands," regardless, since "low-rises-and-drops-lands" takes a long time to say or write. We eventually crossed over such runnels until I could see an air strip, maybe a half of a mile long, more or less. On one end sat an airplane that was painted flat black. At least, I think it was an airstrip, or had been, at one time. I couldn't help but notice it was either made out of dirt, or very cleverly disguised so that one would think it was made out of dirt, if seen from any distance whatsoever. I chose to believe the latter, regardless what logic would counter indicate.
We drove up to the plane, and I looked up into its cargo hold as we came to a stop. It held two cargo baskets about 2 feet tall and 6 feet square, covered in tarps. There were several men about, in small groups, mostly, looking our way. Having been in "wait mode" myself, I recognized the universal look of "something's happening," in their eyes. I had become "something different" just by driving up. Apparently, those who routinely fly flat black airplanes taking off from abandoned dirt airstrips without control towers are apt to take interest in people driving up out of nowhere in yellow Volvo station wagons.
I got out and grabbed my stuff. The crew chief came up and briefed me on the plane, even telling me its model, like I really cared at this point. I just wanted out of Egypt without becoming "Abdul's little friend, Alladin." These guys were all in uniform, and on closer look, you could make out US insignia on the plane, but like they were only in relief, as if the plane had had the markings, but had been painted over.
I threw my stuff in the likely pile of other personal-looking stuff, and made my way over to one of the groups. All of these guys had a little trident insignia on their uniforms, which told me that I now knew enough to know that I didn't want to know any more.
We sat around telling jokes and smoking cigarettes, although, at that time, I had not yet taken up the habit, which I've since given up again, so I didn't actually smoke, while they did. We sat around not asking each other about what we were doing there, or anything else that might identify us in any manner whatsoever. Their disinterest in my appearance only exceeded by the pointed way in which none of us spoke of any of it.
Eventually, the sun went down, and we got into our "loud, cold plane" gear and got on board. I slipped the cloth-covered lifevest over my shirt, and a helmet with "mickey mouse" ears built in to it, and made my way over to a sling along the wall. I don't know if this was my first time to ride in such sling seats, but it isn't difficult. You just turn your back on them, grab the strap, and flop-sit-lean your way into them. I must've been a natural at it.
We heard the engines come to life, and in spite of the Mickey Mouse ears, realized that sound-suppression systems were extra costs that were not incurred for this model of airplane, which I still don't know or care about, to this day. We taxied down the runway and rotated into the air.
My escape was complete.
So, take my advice, if you innocently find yourself in a foreign country with no entry visa into it, and no exit visa out of the previous country, and official orders saying you were carrying something important enough that it was noted in your official orders, well, just tell the travel folks all that up front, to avoid unnecessary detours.
As you can see, though, it was a completely innocent and harmless incident that didn't need all the folderol that they almost gave it.
Labels: humor